Ag01 Mini Into Jumper T-Pro

If you love the Jumper T-Pro, but dislike the standard gimbals, this could be for you.

I have two methods of getting the Radiomaster Ag01 Mini gimmals in to the Jumper T pro, and both these methods are based on Mode 2 stick configuration. This Mode 2 stick configuration gives left stick throttle (with no centering) and right stick pitch and centering. I’ll go over the Fully 3D printed replacement mount method here and the ‘Dremel Attack’ version in a separate article.

IMPORTANT CAVEATS:

1) To disable auto centering the Original Ag01 gimbal config relies on using a screw to hold down the auto centering bar. These mods don’t use this method. If you do not want centering, just remove the centering bar when assembling.

2) I also do not use the tension/friction bar on the right (pitch stick) as this stick is auto centering in a mode 2 config – left stick (throttle) uses the tension bar as normal.

3) I strongly suggest you do not modify your only T-Pro, buy another one and modify that instead. I also bought a spare casing, whilst I was designing the cad models this was very useful to check fitting etc…. thats probably a bit overkill now however.

---

I’ll go through particular element here, this is a bit of a work in progress and I will refine it……

Design
Printing
Modifications to the T-Pro and Ag01 Mini Parts
Wiring Modifications
Assembly
Parts List

Design

Printing

I did all the printing on an Elegoo Saturn 2 MSLA resin printer, all models printed out of the box settings, I cannot guarantee how well they will print on other machines. Whilst you could try an FDM printer, I can’t vouch for this. Resin needs to be rigid, I recommend Siraya Tech ‘Build’ in ‘Smokey black’.

Whilst it maybe tempting on an MSLA to print flat or flat to the build plate, better results are usually acheived with the appropriate angle for your printer.

Modifications

You will need to modify your T-Pro internally by cutting slots in the switch boards for the paddles on the gimbals that are used to limit travel – I used a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel. Its best to do this outside of the T-Pro case. Fit the completed new assembly and mark the positions you need to cut then unplug the cable and unscrew the single screw on each board and remove the board for cutting. Picture below left shows the Throttle side with blue lines indicating where the cuts need to be made. It is suggested the you go slowly and minimize how much material you remove – cut a bit then try it for size then continue to cut it back until you get it right. The areas you are cutting out are on the ground plane and as long as you are careful you can cut enough away to make everything fit with no ill effect. If you do not use the tension bar on the pitch stick (you shouldn’t need it!) you can omit cutting the small cut on that side and leave the switch pcb resting on the mount (see Fig 5 below right).

Two modifications need to be made to the Ag01 parts – cutting a small length off the centering bar – this extra length is used on the original mount to pin down the centering bar with a screw to disable it as required. In our version we will just remove the bar assembly if we don’t need centering.

The other modification to the original Ag01 parts is to cut down the tension/friction bar as in the photo above left. The red portion needs to be removed. You could maybe bend this rather than cut it, but it really is easier to cut with a Dremel and cutting wheel. (just a note here – the uncut tension bar in the photo is not actually an original Ag01 Mini part, its from Radiomasters plastic gimbals from the Zorro, I just couldn’t find an uncut Ag01 Mini one for the photo! – the dimensions are very close. The cut part in the photo (right) is an original Ag01 Mini part.)

Wiring Modifications

The wiring of the Ag01 will need to be either adapted or rewired for the T-Pro. You could do this by utilizing the existing T-Pro gimbal cables or start again with new connectors or make adapters. The plugs are 3 pin molex picoblade connectors for the Ag01 and the board side plug on the T-pro is a 4-pin molex picoblade.

Wiring is as follows on the T-Plug – from left to right looking into the case at the socket on the pcb:-

vcc, gnd, [yaw/roll ], [pitch/throttle]

<Work in progess, I need to take some pics and make it clearer>

Assembly

Depending on what type of resin or plastic you are using, you may find its easy to crack the plastic or pull the threaded inserts out of the plastic if you are heavy handed with either tightening the screws or screwing them in the first place. If threads tighten, back the screw out and retry to clear threads repeatedly if necessary – it easy to get glue in the threads and clearing them patiently is a lot better tactic than destroying the mount or pulling out the inserts. As for tightening secure is enough, overly tight is unnecessary. To prevent screws coming out, its well worth a bit of loctite once you are happy that everything all fits.

Inserts: I used superglue (CA) to glue the inserts in, I think its best to use a Gel type glue rather than the more liquid type. I guess you could use epoxy also. Theres a few comments on Stefans video on CNC Kitchen about this, probably worth a read https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4nbvU2kGzxc&t=3s – one thing I haven’t done is to design undercuts in the holes to give the glue something more to grip on, it would be a compromise here in terms of reducing the strength of the mount in those places.